Hi, I'm Enrico.
Are you looking for the best safety razor?
Do you want to know all the secrets of wet shave?
You want it finally save and make a big leap in quality?
If you follow me in this guide I will explain everything you need to know about safety razors and shaving.
DID YOU KNOW THAT? One of the reasons that drives people to buy a safety razor is the fact that cuts costs compared to multi-blade or disposable razors!
After trying, you won't come back!
Many are true lovers of that ancient "art of shaving" that in this world of very thick beards seems to slowly disappear.
If you are a beginner or even if you are an expert, you've come to the right place! From today you will have a perfect shave thanks to my advice. So what are we waiting for? We proceed!
GUIDE TO SAFETY RAZORS
I consider myself a very lucky man. Do you want to know why?
First of all i love to shave, for me it is of fundamental importance. Having a completely clean face, without a beard, and perfumed and smooth skin really makes me feel myself: for me it's like refusing to wear a mask, I go out and show what I really am.
When I walk through the streets of the center and talk to people, shaving definitely puts me in a more "nude" position. But my naked smile and words do nothing but tell people: "Here I am, it's me, it's really me. They are exactly as you see me. "
Beard or no beard, it depends on tastes and fashions. But the art of shaving goes beyond all this in my opinion and it is a pity that it is disappearing.
If the fact that I love shaving is not enough, there is work and family involved that give me two more satisfactions.
Starting from work, my boss is one of the old ones, very disciplined and strict in the right measure, when needed. My first day at the office told me he didn't want to see beards or long hair. Clearly I pulled the longest sigh of relief I could ever pull.
I like my work. With a boss like that and loving shaving I can't help but be really happy.
Then there is the family which is the thing I care about most. I am married to a fantastic woman and I have one of the most beautiful children in the world.
The most beautiful fairy tale begins in the morning, when I get up and go to the bathroom to shave. As always, more or less in the middle of the job, punctual like a Swiss watch, my eyes completely caught by shaving see in the right corner of the mirror my son Massimo, on the door door.
He stays there, motionless, impassive, to observe, as the best of the students. My pride swells every time watching him learn, he has already written in his face that when he grows up he will be a master of the razor.
Don't miss a single appointment! We both know we have our commitments: I work, he is an elementary school. But we cannot say no to such a beautiful moment between father and son, these are also the occasions that consolidate these relationships.
Mornings are always a game. He arrives, I smile at him, he smiles at me, comes close, starts to ask what I'm doing, what is this and what is that, and I always answer him calmly and precisely, sometimes joking a little.
The thing that happens on time is also this: taking a look in the sink, it goes to get some shaving cream fallen from my face and remained on the edges. It is like rubbing it on the face when our eyes meet. He understands that he doesn't have to do it because it is a "big" thing, he cleans himself and runs to have breakfast and get ready for school.
But this is not always the case. When we have no commitments we joke like two children and we lose all the time we have to lose!
Shaving is like painting. When you do it well, it is always a pleasure to receive compliments from the whole world. My partner is the first who likes a clean and smooth face. He always tells me and I'm very proud of it.
The beard is in fashion lately but in my opinion a man is virile even when he shows himself completely shaved. Fortunately, there are still many who follow this morning ritual as if it were sacred.
In my kit what is not missing at all is a good safety razor, in this specific case the Merkur Futur. It's the best shaving tool I've ever used. I can say that I use it almost always.
I also passed my personal novice phase of this art, a long time ago. And I too, like perhaps you, was looking for a good guide to explain to me the advantages of using a safety razor and above all how to use it.
I wanted to take the plunge, or eliminate the disposable razors that were really making me spend so much. My first choice at the time was a Muhle R89 which is a excellent safety razor for beginners.
After a few months, however, seeing that I had reached a certain familiarity and above all I was no longer cutting myself, I decided it was time to move to the top of quality. This is why I chose Merkur with my eyes closed. Just ask the web, the countless positive reviews of online people speak for themselves.
And in particular the Merkur Futur because it is really the best choice in terms of professionalism and quality.
If you want to deepen this fantastic tool, click here to read my personal review. I now know him very well, being that I use him almost always!
Let's go by degrees. I want to explain to you well what is the convenience of having and using a safety razor and above all, something that many are still hesitant about, because it is more convenient than multi-blade razors or disposable razors.
Then I'll show you the different types on the market. There is not a single safety razor, there are different types and each of them has its advantages. Usually, however, the choice will be made according to your needs.
Safety razor VS Disposable razor?
The answer to this question is unique and will always be the same every time you do it: safety razor.
On the hierarchical scale of shaving, if we want to call it that, there is certainly the freehand razor in the first place, which is as precise and effective as it is dangerous if we do not pay the necessary attention.
At the last place we find instead the disposable blades, which are those products, very often cheap, made for those that I think do not give the right attention that shaving deserves.
I will repeat it until exhaustion: shaving is an art. Artists do not use poor quality tools and above all they are not lazy!
The safety razor stands halfway between the solution from barbers masters and the economic and fast one: if on the one hand they represent the "safer" option, as the word itself says, on the other they also have the advantage of being really convenient for the economic factor.
I am not here to do mathematical accounts, but I invite you to try it for yourself: think of how many times you shave, count how many multi-blade or disposable razors you need to do it monthly or even quarterly. Then see the prices of safety razors and new razor blades that you need to apply when the old one no longer cuts.
Well, now you make the difference between these two numbers and what will come out will always be a number that leaves you stunned.
I recommend, however, do not cheat. I tried the same mathematical trick with some friends who had the same doubt and came up with all possible excuses.
Some friends told me "But I use the same disposable blade in reality for a week without problems": FALSISSIMO!
The disposable blades at most the uses twice, after which they do nothing but tear the hair and cut the skin, it is more than established.
The use depends a lot on the type of beard you have: the more you have it hard and thick, the more the blade will be ruined after the first shave. I can understand that you use it twice if you have a very fine and sparse beard, but in all other cases you have no justification.
Other friends told me instead: "I have a great time with disposable razor blades, they are comfortable and I really do have a wink at shaving without problems": these are the PIGRI FRIENDS, WHO HAVE NEVER TESTED THE SAFETY RAZOR.
It is a question of potential and therefore of advantages that a product brings in using it. If on a scale of 1 to 10 you stop at 4, without even knowing what is next, it is clear that for you that is the best. But fortunately my friends trust me, and when I talk to them about safety razors, with their perfectly clean face, they believe me and they want to try it too.
So to recap, don't think that with the disposable blades you save time and money: IT IS NOT TRUE AND IT WILL NEVER BE!
If you want a convenient, SAFE and also very professional solution then you have to try a safety razor like my friends did. Trust me you won't regret it.
Safety Razor VS Razor freehand
As I told you before, the top of the professional shaving is the freehand razor. For centuries, man has used a sharp blade to cut his beard until a certain Mr. Gillette, at the beginning of the 20th century, began to market the first prototypes of a "modern" razor.
The first difference between the two instruments is structural: the freehand razor consists of a real metal blade attached to a plastic support around which it can rotate to have complete freedom of movement.
A safety razor has the form that I would call simply classic since it is an invention of more than a hundred years: a handle, a head and a blade. In short, really similar to the disposable razors that are found near the supermarket crates, which you buy on the fly without thinking twice before leaving.
Here we come to another difference: the safety razor is made entirely of metal. They are not plastic like the disposable ones.
Let's look at some of the strengths and weaknesses of this type of razor.
Benefits of the safety razor
Using such a razor constitutes a really safe alternative to the use of a precise freehand razor. Not only that, it also takes a lot less time to become really good at juggling an instrument like that.
It is easier to use. It does not take a degree to understand how it works and how to change the blade when the one that is mounted stops shaving because it has lost the thread. With this razor there is nothing to sharpen, but only to unscrew and replace. No sooner said than done.
As I told you before, it's cheaper to use compared to disposable razors. Safety razor razor blades cost very little and can last up to a week. You buy the disposable razor to use it once and throw it away completely, you can't do otherwise.
Disadvantages of the safety razor
The first thing that comes to mind is certainly the fact that it doesn't do as cool as a freehand razor. It seems to me quite clear, but the compromise is in the safety of a device that cannot cut down and really hurt. Furthermore, there is also the ease of use which is one of the main aspects.
Another aspect that may seem negative is the need to constantly buy razor blades and replace them. Here too, as before, depends on how you want to see it. The freehand razor should be sharpened constantly and needs maintenance. So as you see, they are not real disadvantages, it depends on the point of view.
With a safety razor the perfect shave is guaranteed.
As in everything you have to get carried away, but don't think you need a degree and years of practice! I learned with the Muhle R89, an excellent safety razor for beginners, and after two months I already had the Merkur Futur in my kit.
The fundamental points on which to insist are essentially two:
The first is undoubtedly the great investment that a safety razor constitutes. There is no way it holds, the multi-blade razors and disposables cost more.
The second is in the wet shave, or the "classic" shaving method, the one used by professional barbers and that you can make yours without any problem.
I will list the various phases in detail, of course, I have thought of everything. You find them immediately after the reviews of the best safety razors, lower down. If you follow this procedure the result will be simply fantastic, like an Oscar.
How the safety razor is made
The safety razor is easy to use but certainly needs some practice in the early days. There are more specific models for experts, such as the Merkur Futur, and others that are highly recommended for beginners, such as the Muhle R89.
If the shape resembles a disposable razor a lot, as a structure and construction materials it is completely different.
The ease of replacement of the blade, the maintenance and cleaning of the instrument depends on the number of pieces in which you can disassemble a razor.
Such a razor has a handle, a guard and a head. These types are very common, they are disassembled and washed very easily. The peculiarity here is the removable guard, which would be that piece on which the blade is physically placed.
The guard is missing in this type. The head unscrews from the handle allowing the insertion of the new blade. If maintenance is once again easy, the blade replacement is less convenient than the three-piece one.
Butterfly (One Piece)
The butterfly ones, also called TTO, or from the English "twist to open", have an opening mechanism on the head to allow the easy insertion of the new blade. The head will open in two, hence the butterfly name, applying pressure to the sides of the head. They consist of a single solid piece of metal. They are certainly more practical, but maintenance requires a lot of care because you can't take them apart.
TYPES OF TOOTH OR COMB
The aggression factor of a razor depends on the teeth.
Open Teeth (OPEN COMB)
They are the most aggressive, and those definitely recommended for those with a hard beard. The first thing you notice, even from a simple photo, is that the security guard is missing. Instead of the classic bar there is a sort of "comb", more or less wide depending on the models, which serves to increase the pressure of the blade when passing over the skin. Among the three categories, it is certainly the most recommended for experts in this type of razor.
Closed gear (CLOSED COMB)
They are the least aggressive ones, the easiest to use and therefore very suitable both for those who want to start shaving with a safety razor, and for those with particularly sensitive skin. They are equipped with a guard bar, which extends the skin during the passage of the razor so that the blade can cut the hair easily and in depth. If you are a beginner, I recommend starting with a closed comb model.
Finally there are the safety razors with adjustable teeth. These are equipped with a practical mechanism that allows you to decide the position of the blade. In short, you can choose the aggressiveness of the razor. It is not recommended for beginners as the fact of being able to adjust the protrusion of the blade could cause irritation and cuts.
These are the main features of a safety razor. So you understand that you are dealing with something professional, made entirely of metal, heavy at the right point to allow a comfortable grip and return an easy and precise shave.
At this point I would say that there is nothing left for us to do but go and see the best safety razors available on the market.
The Best Safety Razors – The Reviews
Merkur Futur – adjustable – The safety razor I use regularly
When you become really good at shaving with a safety razor you can't do anything but buy the best and put yourself in the hands of a great brand. Merkur produces high quality razors and Merkur Futur is by far the best you can find on the market.
What I just wrote is exactly what I did some time ago. After using another great tool like the Muhle R89 (which I reviewed below), I decided to go to the top.
It costs a lot, but in the face of so much professionalism there is no price that holds.
I start from the structural characteristics. The Merkur Futur safety razor is a two-piece, which fit together perfectly. It is adjustable, on 6 different positions that make it practically aggressive to the right point according to the needs.
It is made of die-cast metal and if you look closely at it, this model stands out a lot: it has a smooth handle which could sound like a weak point. At first I had to get used to it, as with all things, but right now I have absolutely no problems.
He uses himself very well, he doesn't slip in my hands and he makes his beautiful figure, there is nothing to say.
It is 11 centimeters tall and weighs almost 130 grams. Yes, of course, it makes itself felt, if that's what you're thinking, but it's all in favor of the purpose for which it is intended. It is a safety razor and should never be used by pressing on the face. The weight helps a lot during shaving and makes the razor run smoothly on the skin without any need to force.
Now, the change of the blade. On the head there is a mechanism that opens thanks to a slight pressure on the slightly larger end. The springs that hold the blade cover will go off and allow you to replace the blades in comfort.
Regarding the settings, we are talking about an adjustable safety razor for experts. There are six positions, ranging from a soft cut (1 or 2) to something much more aggressive (5 or 6). High positions imply greater blade exposure.
I used it to the maximum at position 3. I imagine that if you have a very hard and thick beard, 5 or even 6 can still guarantee you a perfect shave. This razor is a monster, really.
What to say, the best safety razor you can find around. I am really very happy to own it and surely you will too. Without doubt the perfect solution for the more experienced, as it leaves total control over aggression.
The last piece of advice I want to give you is about the blades. There are many around, for me the best result is given by these blades.
Muhle R41 – open comb – A great tool in expert hands
The Muhle R41 safety razor is probably the most aggressive shaving tool you can find on the market.
Let it be clear, therefore, that I am talking to you about a razor for the more experienced, as it is an open comb (open dentition), and is particularly recommended for non-sensitive skin and for hard and thick beards. If you know how to handle these types of razors then it's absolutely right for you.
It is a three piece, so the handle, guard and head are removable. It is absolutely a razor of great quality, produced in Germany and even looking at it from the picture it has all the impression of being something that will really last a very long time.
This feeling is immediately felt to the touch. It is a resistant razor, made of steel, and the advantage of being able to disassemble it guarantees a truly perfect cleaning. In short, it will always be like new.
It is 9.4 centimeters large and weighs only 64 grams. This is where many were immediately frightened: an open comb safety razor, already designed to be very aggressive, weighing only 64 grams? Well yes, this is the simple and pure demonstration that is a really specific product for those who have a lot of experience.
An open comb razor so light in the hands of a beginner would only do damage. And here I will not go out with the usual phrase made "try to believe" because really, there is no need. Just trust me, and the whole range of people who have already tried it by noticing this particular.
But weight is not everything. There is another feature that makes the Muhle R41 a beast of shaving. The teeth of the comb, perhaps from the photo you cannot see very well, they are quite angled and the result is only one: the skin is more exposed to the cut of the blade, inevitably.
Therefore, this razor will also be aggressive but in reality it would have to be moved to less scary tones and therefore highlight the absolute efficiency and the very great utility of such an instrument.
It is a perfect razor for all those out there who have a particularly thick and hard beard. Aggressiveness in this sense becomes the most important aspect and the strong point. By applying the rules of wet shave and using this razor, you could probably even shear a sheep.
The Muhle R41 safety razor is certainly one of the best open combs on the market. I repeat, it is not for beginners, but if you are an expert and your beard is within the parameters mentioned above, you will be more than satisfied with the results.
To be used absolutely with excellent quality razor blades and a good thread. I can definitely recommend the Astra because they are the ones I use regularly on my safety razor. Other very good blades are undoubtedly the Feather Hi-Stainless and also the Personna.
Muhle R89 – closed comb – The best safety razor for beginners
Perfect for beginners
Three pieces, easy to wash
I started with Merkur Futur, an expert tool, then came the Muhle R41, another tool for experts. You who are reading and you are a beginner will ask yourself "and you don't think about it?". And I answer you promptly with the Muhle R89 safety razor.
Here, if you want to learn and at the same time aim for a quality razor then, with your eyes closed, throw yourself on this Muhle.
The peculiarity of this razor is that it is a closed comb (closed set of teeth), that is, it has a blade protection bar, unlike open combs, which are certainly more aggressive and less recommended for the novice public.
Many friends ask me what to do about quality, from disposable razors to this type of shaving tool. I have always advised starting from Muhle R89.
I remember you here, but I also explained it above, this was my first safety razor, I literally learned with this and I still have it. To use it is very simple, both for shaving and for replacing the blades.
It is a three piece, the handle, the guard and the head separate and it is a great joy to be able to keep it always clean and practically as new. The handle is rough to the right point, it never slips between the hands, considering that you will surely wet them at the time of use.
It is 9 centimeters wide and weighs only 65 grams. It is not very heavy and therefore the obligation of the recommendation is triggered: when using a safety razor you should not push during the pass, otherwise you cut yourself. Let the razor go down on your face naturally.
Clearly, with a razor of this weight you will almost automatically want to press on the skin, probably because you think that "pressing down" means "shaving thoroughly". NO! It just means "to hurt yourself deeply" so if you are a beginner and you are the first time you use a safety razor, I refer you to the shaving guide with this tool to avoid making mistakes.
Shaving is guaranteed and to have better results, depending on the type of beard more or less hard, all you have to do is opt for more sharp razor blades, such as the Personna. The replacement of these is very easy, just unscrew the head, place the blade and re-tighten keeping the blade in position.
I can assure you that the Muhle R89 safety razor is a great, professional and quality starting point. Highly recommended to start.
Edwin Jagger DE89 – closed comb – The least aggressive and the most requested
Perfect for beginners
Excellent value for money
The Edwin Jagger safety razor is a triumph of reviews. Everyone wants it, everyone buys it, everyone talks about it beautifully.
Being a closed comb it lends itself very well as a tool to start learning to shave with this type of razors. It is not very aggressive and this makes it perfect for those with particularly sensitive skin and for those with a not very hard beard.
It is certainly a quality razor made to art. It is very durable, made entirely of steel.
If you are one of those who uses disposable razors or multilama, I think you will be amazed by what a single blade can do. Always bearing in mind that the Edwin Jagger is a little aggressive razor.
It is 9.5 centimeters large and weighs 60 grams. It is not among the heaviest in circulation and so you have to be very careful not to get caught by the moment and press on the skin during the pass. The razor just goes with it, so it works and trust me that it does its job well.
If we want to talk about costs, the Edwin Jagger safety razor in my opinion is the right compromise between quality and price. It is made of steel which means strength and durability, and it is a three piece, so it is also very easy to wash it.
I conclude by telling you that if you want to officially enter this world, the Edwin Jagger safety razor is perfect to start and learn, first of all because it's not aggressive, but also because it doesn't cost much.
Fatip Piccolo – open comb – The 100% made in Italy safety razor
Made in Italy
How could a product made completely in our country be missing in this ranking? Fatip is a very famous company that produces different types of safety razors.
What I review here is the Fatip Piccolo, but you can also find the Fatip Grande Testina Gentile, a less aggressive closed comb which is, as the name suggests, bigger.
Let's start with the structural features. It is a razor made entirely of quality brass. It is 8 centimeters long and weighs 70 grams. In short, it is a really compact and very versatile razor but certainly not suitable for everyone.
It has open teeth and is considered one of the most aggressive on the market, so it is definitely recommended for shaving experts with this type of instrument.
The weight is optimally distributed and guarantees truly perfect results. Being small it will be even easier to use it.
One of the things that strikes is certainly the price. It is a high quality object but does not cost much. I highly recommend it to those who are particularly familiar, the wet shave with this razor will give its best.
He is aggressive yes, but Fatip has thought of everyone. There are various different Fatip safety razor models, including the one with closed teeth Gentile head that I have already mentioned before.
The latter is sweeter than the Piccolo and is also 8.7 centimeters long. The weight of 66 grams is almost similar to its "younger brother" but this does not affect the manageability, comfort and ability to return a perfect shave.
Depending on what best suits your style or experience, the Fatip safety razor will surely satisfy you.
Kanzy K-100 – closed comb – The best economic safety razor
- Best safety razor: easy, fast and safe blade replacement to shave like Barber or Salon razors, unique and beautiful design, comfortable to use, long life. It works straight on a beard, mustache and gives a perfect shave.
- Try the perfect shave with the KANZY safety razor, easy to shave without problems and ideal for all body hair. Not comparable to plastic razors, of the highest quality like a professional men's razor. Our safety razor offers you the best clean shave compared to the razor.
Great for beginners
Box included which makes the shaver portable
Handle too heavy
Per te ho in serbo anche qualcosa di davvero economico ma che allo stesso tempo non cede ai compromessi. Parlo del rasoio di sicurezza Kanzy K-100, che è molto cercato online ed è anche tra i più venduti e tra i meglio recensiti.
Il rasoio si presenta molto bene fin dall’inizio, basta dare un’occhiata a come viene venduto: dalla scatola potrai estrarre un box che funge da portarasoio grazie all’apposito vano. Come se non bastasse è dotato anche di specchietto. Sempre all’interno si trova anche una lama di ricambio.
Questo rasoio può quindi essere visto come un ottimo strumento portatile, dunque te lo consiglio se cerchi proprio la portabilità: puoi andare dove vuoi senza mai rinunciare al rasoio di sicurezza.
Puoi usare le lamette che più preferisci e da queste spesso dipende l’efficacia del rasoio a seconda del tipo di barba che vuoi radere. È chiaro che quanto più spessa e dura è, tanto più affilata dovrà essere la lama per garantire una rasatura perfetta e una pelle liscia come quella di un bambino.
È grande 9,5 centimetri e pesa 75 grammi. È pesante sicuramente, ricorda solo di lasciar scorrere il rasoio senza premere sul viso e non avrai problemi.
Come ti dicevo prima, il rasoio Kanzy non scende a compromessi nonostante il prezzo molto conveniente. È robusto e molto resistente, è smontabile e dunque può essere tenuto sempre perfettamente pulito, le rifiniture e il manico cromato lo rendono anche molto bello dal punto di vista del design.
È un’ottima scelta di certo se sei un principiante e vuoi conoscere meglio questo mondo. Puoi optare per il Kanzy se hai bisogno di fare pratica per poi passare, quando avrai acquisito una certa dimestichezza, a qualcosa di più costoso e per esperti, come quello che uso io quotidianamente.
Ottima scelta anche per risparmiare, essendo che i monouso o i multilama in confronto tendono col tempo a essere molto più costosi. Quindi cosa aspetti, è arrivato il momento di fare il salto di qualità anche per te!
Wilkinson Classic – closed comb – Per i principianti, economicissimo
- Il rasoio Classic unisce la semplicità ad alte prestazioni con un ottimo rapporto qualità prezzo, garantito dal marchio Wilkinson Sword
- Dotato di una lama doppio taglio, con lame rivestite in PTFE, una tecnologia antiaderente, che rende la rasatura ancora più sicura, confortevole e scorrevole
Interamente di plastica
Non è fatto per durare
Ultimo ma non per importanza arriva il Wilkinson Classic che è, come il nome stesso dice, un grande classico.
È super economico, fatto in plastica come i suoi cugini monouso ma possiede un’anima di metallo, nel manico, che lo rende più bilanciato nella rasatura. Si perché per quanto possa sembrare un comunissimo rasoio usa e getta, in realtà questo è a tutti gli effetti un rasoio di sicurezza.
È un due pezzi: la testina viene via in modo da poter sostituire la lametta in tutta facilità e comodità. Parlando di lamette, arriva anche dotato di 5 lamette Wilkinson ma puoi mettere quella che vuoi tu, rendendolo totalmente personalizzato e più adatto al tipo di barba che hai.
Sarà pure economico ma i risultati nella rasatura sono davvero eccellenti. Tieni conto però che è pur sempre un closed comb, ovvero è poco aggressivo, ma hai comunque il vantaggio di poter montare la lametta più affilata che c’è, se vuoi.
È un Wilkinson, che non ha certo bisogno di presentazioni. È uno strumento che è letteralmente perfetto per chi vuole capire bene cosa è e come funziona un rasoio di sicurezza. Sia chiaro però, è solo per iniziare. È pur sempre fatto di plastica e non ha una durata eterna.
Il mio parere è, se sei all’inizio, fidati a occhi chiusi di un rasoio del genere. Durerà il tempo necessario per permetterti di fare il passaggio ad un bel rasoio di sicurezza in metallo da esperti. Questo poi potrai conservarlo con la cura necessaria e venerarlo come il migliore maestro.
I segreti della rasatura col rasoio di sicurezza: la “wet shave”
La rasatura perfetta si raggiunge solo e soltanto con quella che in inglese viene chiamata “wet shave”. È questo il vero segreto dietro un grande uomo.
Ti stai chiedendo qual è il trucco? Semplice: acqua calda e utilizzo di UNA SOLA LAMA.
Wet shave non significa semplicemente “rasarsi con l’acqua”, è molto di più, è una filosofia. È un procedimento, un rituale, che va seguito nei minimi dettagli e che garantisce i risultati migliori, sempre e comunque.
La wet shave non è altro che il metodo classico, che molti conoscono bene. Forse qualcuno di voi che sta leggendo non è ferrato in merito, ma io sono qui per questo, quindi vediamo insieme i 14 step fondamentali di questa procedura:
- Calma e pazienza: quando c’è di mezzo l’aspetto e la cura della persona, bisogna sempre prendersi il tempo necessario. All’inizio sarà normale sbagliare ma l’esperienza la farà da padrona e diventerai subito un maestro.
- USA UN RASOIO DI SICUREZZA: la verità è che puoi usare anche un rasoio a mano libera ma non è questo il punto. Non usare assolutamente lamette monouso o multilama, insomma quelle usa e getta. La rasatura perfetta si fa con una singola ottima lama, punto e basta. Tutti gli esperti ti diranno la stessa cosa, il risultato sarà meno irritazioni e meno bruciature.
- Usa un buon pennello da barba: secondo molti la crema da barba si può tranquillamente spalmare con le mani, e invece no. Secondo te il pennello fa semplicemente fico? Ti sbagli. Serve innanzitutto ad alzare bene i peli per prepararli alla rasatura ed ha un effetto esfoliante poiché rimuove la pelle morta dal viso durante il passaggio. Inoltre conviene! Le mani non riescono a raggiungere lo stesso risultato del pennello, quest’ultimo ti aiuta a creare più schiuma e a diffonderla in maniera più omogenea utilizzando meno prodotto. Seeing is believing. PS: “ottimo pennello” vuol dire fatto di setole di cinghiale, quelli con peli sintetici saranno pure economici ma non sono assolutamente allo stesso livello.
- Usa una buona crema da barba: nota bene che ho usato il termine “crema” e non “schiuma” o “gel”. La crema è il top: la prendi, la metti nella ciotola e la monti per bene prima di applicarla sul viso col pennello. Anche qui gli esperti parlano chiaro. Attenzione a non comprare prodotti a base di alcool, che tende a seccare la pelle: pelle secca vuole dire bruciature e irritazioni. I prodotti a base di glicerina sono buoni.
- Prepara l’acqua calda nel lavandino: questo è la fase di preparazione. L’acqua calda è fondamentale come lo è mantenere sempre il viso idratato dall’inizio alla fine. L’acqua calda dilata i pori sul viso e rilassa i muscoli facciali garantendo una rasatura più efficace. Nella stessa acqua immergi per un paio di secondi il pennello prima di procedere a spalmare la crema.
- Applica dell’olio sul viso: un buon prodotto aiuta a mantenere il viso idratato durante la rasatura e aiuta anche il rasoio a procedere, beh come dire, liscio come l’olio. Ammorbidisce i peli, funge da antisettico e fa da lubrificante.
- Monta la crema: prendi il pennello, che hai tenuto per un paio di secondi immerso nell’acqua calda, e inizia a montare la crema in una ciotola apposita. Raccomandazione: non usare tanta crema, non ci crederai se te lo dico, ma se il pennello è buono farà una schiuma abbondante da bastare per tre! Scherzi a parte, puoi sempre provare anche qui per credere. Vedi quanta schiuma fai usando le mani e usando il pennello. Resterai sbalordito.
- Applica la crema: facendo movimenti circolari, col pennello copri l’intero viso e il collo o almeno tutte le zone che hai deciso di radere. Fai attenzione che la schiuma sia ben diffusa omogeneamente.
- Inizia con la rasatura: finalmente puoi prendere il tuo fidato rasoio di sicurezza. La prima passata va fatta da sopra a sotto, o per meglio dire, nella direzione di crescita del pelo. Con un rasoio di questo tipo non devi “spingere” nel passaggio ma semplicemente andare giù tranquillamente. Questi strumenti sono fatti apposta per essere aggressivi al punto giusto, ma se spingi ti tagli. È pur sempre un rasoio!
- Pulisci sempre il rasoio: la lama va tenuta costantemente pulita di modo che il taglio sia sempre efficace.
- Seconda passata: questa solitamente va fatta invece contropelo, ovvero nella direzione opposta rispetto alla prima passata, per avere un look davvero pulito e liscio. Se sei un maestro nell’arte del radersi, puoi farla senza applicare nuovamente la crema. All’inizio ti consiglio di rifare tutto il procedimento da capo per non rischiare irritazioni e tagli. Quindi ripeti tutto dalla prima fase e procedi con la seconda passata. Questa, ti ricordo ancora una volta, andrà fatta invece da sotto a sopra, ovvero contropelo.
- Lava il viso: qui entra in gioco l’acqua fredda. Se l’acqua calda apre i pori, quella fredda li chiude. Ed è quello che vogliamo ottenere a fine rasatura. Inoltre rinfresca e sarà più facile affrontare la giornata. Ora puoi anche applicare un buon dopobarba, ma non di quelli a base di alcool, perché rendono la pelle secca. Quelli buoni idratano e proteggono a lungo.
- Tampona con un asciugamano: strofinare in questi casi semplicemente rovina tutto quello di buono che hai fatto finora e provoca irritazioni. Tamponare invece è il segreto. Dopo aver fatto ciò, in nemmeno cinque minuti l’umidità residua andrà via da sola.
- Pulisci tutti i tuoi strumenti: rasoio, pennello, ciotola, vanno puliti con grande cura e riposti ad asciugare da soli. La pulizia costante e attenta aiuta a mantenere alta la qualità della rasatura ed è anche conveniente. Infatti gli strumenti dureranno più a lungo.
Hai capito ora quali sono i segreti della rasatura perfetta? Se segui i miei consigli vedrai i risultati già dopo il primo giorno.
Voglio di nuovo raccomandarmi con te su una cosa: non usare i rasoi monouso per questo e stai lontano dai multilama. Ribadisco che per un lavoro perfetto e senza irritazioni e bruciature una sola lama, usata bene, è più che sufficiente.
Il mondo della rasatura è davvero affascinante ma la conseguente arte del radersi sta scomparendo. Noi uomini glabri siamo costantemente e quotidianamente circondati da barbe di qualunque tipo.
Ho imparato a radermi quando avevo poco meno di 18 anni. Ricordo l’entusiasmo. E ricordo anche mio padre che è stato davvero di grande aiuto.
È un po’ come una tradizione, o almeno io così l’ho vissuta sin dall’inizio: il mio vecchio mi tramandava la sua tecniche e i suoi segreti.
Quando ti radi è sempre un’esperienza. Io la prendo come una seduta di meditazione mattutina. È un’operazione che può sembrar essere vissuta con superficialità ma in realtà non è così.
Io, quando mi rado la mattina, entro come in uno stato di pace, di serenità, e da questo dipende fortemente l’intera giornata.
Cerco sempre di dare il giusto tempo alla rasatura e a tutte le varie pratiche mattutine che devo fare prima di recarmi al lavoro. Prendendo la giornata con serenità fin da quando comincia, ti aiuta tantissimo.
Ora che ti ho svelato il mio lato “meditativo” e “filosofico” non mi resta altro che augurarti una buona rasatura, spero che questa mia guida ti sia di grande aiuto.
Ciao da Enrico.
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